Batanes | Wander to Wonder

Beauty beyond nature,  dream vacation, breathtaking view, jaw-dropping, heaven on earth, or as my new-found travel buddy / high school friend, Jean, described it – peaceful haven and simplicity overload – all of these are just understatement until you experience Batanes yourself.

Batanes, the smallest province in terms of population and soil area is an island in the northernmost tip of the Philippines, where the Pacific Ocean meets the South China Sea (West Philippine Sea). Geographically closer to Taiwan than in Manila, it is composed of 10 islands – 7 uninhabited and 3 inhabited – Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat.

My dream of setting foot on this island came true last April. It was supposed to be our Holy Week 2013 destination, but due to financial constraint, we ended up in Port Barton and El Nido in Palawan – where the latter topped my favorite beaches in the Philippines.

Saturday, April 12, 2014

The time that I have been waiting for has finally come! It was 7:45 AM when the PAL Express plane landed in Basco Airport. I didn’t know that Ate Remy, the caretaker of Novita House, was there to pick us up. It was Meong who saw her holding a white board with my name on it.

Philippine Airlines (PAL) has a direct flight (and 2 flights during peak season) from Manila to Basco daily.

From airport to Novita House is a 5-minute walk. I booked the guest house 3 months before the trip. Food in Batanes is pricey, so we need to stay in a place where we could cook. It’s hard to find guesthouses in Batanes since not all are available online. Lucky me, Novita House was still available when I booked it.

I’m not sure the maximum people that can stay in Novita House, but it has an air conditioned room good for 4, and just before you enter the room is a bedroom good for 2.

If you want to stay in a guest house and Novita House is no longer available, call Ate Remy, she might be able to help you find one.

It was also Ate Remy, who arranged the van for our Batan – North and South and Sabtang tour.

After the power nap, we started our South Batan tour. We were picked up by Michael, our van driver who, originally came from Nueva Ecija and decided to settle in Batanes several months ago with his Ivatan wife. According to him, you cannot settle or live in Batanes unless you are married to a true-blood Ivatan (parang mud blood ng Harry Potter lang ang peg ni Michael).

You can charter a tricycle for a minimum cost.

We were on a budget so we didn’t hire a tour guide. I just did a little research that will serve as the background on the places that we’re going to visit.

South Batan is consists of Mahatao, Ivana and Uyugan towns.

Mahatao View Deck

With its tranquil and turquoise water, it is one of my favorite spots to photograph in Batanes. I called this place ‘simply gorgeous’.

Mahatao Boat Shelter Port

This infrastructure supports the goal of the fishing industry of Batanes – sufficiency and job generation.

San Carlos de Borromeo Church (or Mahatao Church)

The first stone-made church in Mahatao. In 1872, a strong typhoon destroyed it, and a new church in baroque style was built by Father Crescencio Polo, O. P. in 1873. This is now a National Cultural Heritage Treasure conferred by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCAA) on July 2001.

Maywang A Libro Du Vatan (Batanes Blank Book Archive)

A small library beside the San Carlos Borromeo Church that contains shelves of hardbound blank books where visitors can write.

Yeah, I wrote on Book # 681, not hard to find since it is my birth month and year.

Old Spanish Bridge

This is the oldest bridge in Batanes built by the Spaniards.

House of Dakay

Included in UNESCO World Heritage Site, the house that was built in 1887 is one of the oldest and last few standing old century houses being used to date.

St. Joseph Church

Honesty Coffee Shop

The unmanned variety store is famous for showing the honesty of the Ivatans. 

Take the goods that you want to purchase and drop your payment on the boxes. Each item is labeled with price, so make sure to pay the exact amount (or close to the actual amount) since there is no one to give you change.  There is also a record book where you have to log the item you purchased.

Song Song Ruins

A village few meters from Songsong beach that was hit by the tidal waves during the 1960s.

We also passed by on the house used in the movie ‘Batanes’.

Dekey a Kanayan (Alapad Rock Formations and Hill)

What else should I say aside from it is also one of my favorite spots in Batanes? From here is the view of beautiful rock formations, cliffs and blue water.

Some scenes on the movie ‘Hihintayin Kita sa Langit’ were shot here.

Jump shot of the day

You can also see the LORAN Station (a former US navigational facility) ruins from the hills.

San Lorenzo Ruiz Chapel and the site marker for the first mass in Batanes soil

According to our guide, the first mass and baptism in Batanes was celebrated here, making barangay Imnajbu the birthplace of Christianity in Batanes.

Rakuh a Payaman (Marlboro Hills)

Not as green as I have seen on different photo blogs or sites, but still took my breath away. With the bluish Pacific Ocean, greenish farms fields and Mt. Iraya and the Mahatao Lighthouse greeting you, who wouldn’t?

A small eatery for the tourists serving local dishes will welcome you in Marlboro Hills.

Getting nearer to the light house that we have seen from Marlboro Hills.

Pension Ivatan

We ended our day by having dinner in Pension Ivatan where we were greeted by brown out. Yehey! It is located several steps away from the airport (pero naligaw pa din kami). They are famous for serving the ‘platter’ that consists of the ‘must-try’ dishes in Batanes.

Unfortunately, most dishes were not available during our visit so we ended up on asking for their ala carte menu.

A reservation is needed if you want to try the platter since food is cooked for 1 to 1 ½ hours.

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Sabtang is the smallest inhabited island in Batanes. I can’t wait to be here since it offers more sights of well-preserved stone houses.

It was 6:30 AM when Michael picked us up and dropped us in Radiwan Port in the town of Ivana. Our boat ride to Sabtang and the van for the tour was pre-arranged by Ate Remy.

One of the faluwa in Radiwan Port

Tourists bound to Sabtang

After the registration, we boarded a small boat called faluwa that will take us to Sabtang Port. It is the main means of transportation when you are moving between islands of Batanes, an oval-shaped motorized boat without outrigger and can easily navigate on the strong waves of the sea. I have learned that boat ride could be rough, since we will cross the water where the Pacific Ocean meets the South China Sea. But thank heaven that the sea was calm during that day.

Off to Sabtang

Kuya controlling the boat using his foot

We reached Sabtang port after 30 minutes and greeted by Kuya Charles, our van driver for that trip. A couple also joined our group (my bad, I forgot their names).

First glimpse of Sabtang Island

Vans waiting at Sabtang port

We headed first at the Municipal Tourism Information Center to pay the registration fee. Then, proceed on our first stop – Barrio Savidug. Here, we were greeted by a street of old stone houses with cogon roof and small windows, some were already ruined, some were renovated.

Walking and exploring the place reminds me of Calle Crisologo in Vigan, Ilocos Sur – a street of Spanish houses. It was like you were being transported in a different time.

After Savidug, we headed to Chamantad. We passed by Idjang (fortified mountains), the Ivatan settlements that served as the first fortress against invaders.

Idjang Fortress in Barrio Savidug

The Chamantad-Tinyan Sitio bumpy ride was all worth it once you started your trek to witness these views.

View from the van

Hills and Seaside of Chamantad-Tinyan Sitio View

Seaside of Chamantad-Tinyan Sitio View

and another seaside view

Gorgeous hot summer

Jump shot of the day

Our next stop was Barrio Chavayan, a UNESCO nominated site for its old houses, streets and sites.

Welcome to Chavayan

Chavayan house and the hanging fishes

Why do they always paint the windows blue?

Kailangan naka yuko para makapasok

You can have a photo op with the old and young Ivatans, buy souvenirs, enter one’s house (just ask their permission first) and savor their simple way of living.

A local na inistorbo din namin para mag pa picture :)

Souvenirs

Chavayan Kids

Don't worry, babalikan kita

If I got more time, I will not have a second thought to spend a night here and explore what more Chavayan could offer (learn to weave vakul, maybe? Nyahaha).

Time is precious when you only have a day in Chavayan. The last faluwa ride back to Batan is 1:30 PM since late afternoon trips are not advisable due to weather conditions.

After exploring Chavayan, we went back to the van for our last destination in Sabtang – the Nakabuang Beach and Arch, where our pre-arranged lunch was served near the beach.

First glimpse of Nakabuang Beach

Speaking for myself, the food served on Nakabuang Beach is overrated. The coconut crab is a must try, but nothing was special about it.

After lunch, we headed to the beach where you can find a natural arch formation.

The sand is white, but not so fine. Still, where else in Batanes can you swim? With limited time left, Joy and I immediately dip in the inviting water.

At exactly 12:30 PM, we boarded the van bound to Sabtang Port as we do not wish to miss the faluwa ride.

Sabtang Port

Good bye Sabtang

At 5 PM, we were on our way to Naidi Hills, near the Basco Lighthouse for our (again) pre-arranged dinner at Bunker’s – used to be a bunker during Japanese occupation and later converted as a restaurant.

Sunset from Naidi Hills

Basco Lighthouse

With the Basco Lighthouse, hills, mountain and sea around you, the chance to witness the sunset, the sumptuous and savory meal on your table, one will keep coming back here.

Bunker’s is only open during dinner and reservation is required (lucky you if you got accommodated without reservation because the couple who joined our tour in Sabtang was not).

Monday, April 14, 2014

Literally speaking, I have 3 itineraries for this trip because of the pros and cons on visiting Itbayat – the largest island in Batanes (with a population of less than 3000, yeah, this is the largest). So I got plan A, B and C.

Pros – (1) It is the northernmost inhabited island of Batanes, the one closest to Taiwan. (2) They have cave, beautiful rock formation and 360-degree view of the island. (3) I want to experience jumping from faluwa to a concrete landing when the boat is swinging up and down when the ocean wave is strong (pero nung na experience ko, ayoko na maulit).
Cons – (1) You need 2 days (or stay overnight). There is no boat traveling to and from Itbayat during Holy Thursday, Good Friday and regular Sundays. (2) Weather is unpredictable, a trip back to Batan might be cancelled if the weather is bad and the wave is too strong.

It was 5 AM when we left Novita House and made our way to Basco port on foot. The generous Ate Remy accompanied us all the way to the port.

There are 3 boats on the Batan-Itbayat-Batan route – the M/B Ocean Spirit, M/B Intransa and M/B Veronica. We bought our tickets on the latter as recommended by Ate Remy since it’s the newest and fastest amongst the 3.

Before 6 AM, M/B Veronica started to sail.

The seawater on the entire 3-hour boat ride was calm. Some of us even positioned ourselves at the top of the boat to have a better view of what awaits us.

The views from the top didn’t fail us – the unexpected sightings of dolphins (it was AWESOME by the way), the boat crew pulling the fish from its bait, and the endless count of flying fishes entertaining you.

Fresh from the ocean

Chinapoliran Port from afar

The sea was still calm and it was close to 9 AM when we reached Chinapoliran Port of Itbayat. Yeah! We did it! We were officially on the northernmost tip of the country.

I immediately get out of the boat so I can watch how the cargos are alighted, including the van (yes we had van on the boat).

Unloading our stuff

Unloading the van

Success!!! van unloaded

After more than an hour of waiting, Kuya Jojo, the tour guide I contacted before this trip arrived. We headed to Nanay Cano’s house.

There are no hotels in Itbayat, only homestays or lodging houses.

We were not advised that the four of us were not going to stay in the same house. Per Nanay Cano, Jean and I will share a room with the 3 girls who arrived before we do, while Meong and Joy will stay on the other side of the universe (joke!). I think it was fine with Nanay if we didn’t want to be split out since I booked our room 3 months before the trip. She gave us 2 options – Meong will share the room with 2 other guys in one of her extension houses or Meong (plus one of us) will stay in one of the homestays there, we just chose the latter.

Being apart with Meong and Joy was a blessing though, it was then when they met Nanay Laura, the best cook in the island!

We rented a tricycle that is good for 3, and I back-ride with Kuya Jojo. At 12:30, the tour begun.

rough road and lush greenery

Torongan Cave

Having been to Samar, where I experienced the most challenging activities (trek, hike, climb, spelunk, crawl, etc.) to explore a cave, the 20-minute trek to Torongan Cave was an easy one. We passed through the forest where I was amazed how the gates were placed on some of the privately-owned area.

"gated-property" version in Itbayat

Stalactites will greet you as you reach the entrance. 

A little more trek and you will see an opening with the sea as its background – such a beauty to behold.

The opening is believed to be the first landing place of the Austronesians from Taiwan thousands of years ago.

Bring lots of water for this trip.

Torongan Cliff

At the top of the cave is a short climb to the cliff – where one can commune with nature.

Be mesmerize on any angle

Boat-shape burial of the ancient settlers (hindi lang obvious sa picture ko)

Also good for camping

Believe me. It was hard to say good bye

Yawran Village

Original cogon houses can be found here.

You can also buy fresh coconut juice – as in fresh-picked coconut.

Itbayat Airport

If you do not want to endure the 2-3 hour aggressive waves from Basco to Itbayat or vice versa, and if you can pay P1800/pax/way, then charter the 8-seater plane, and you’ll be in Itbayat in less than 10 minutes.

Jumpshot of the day

Kavaywan Lake

It was not really a lake. It was just the rain water that fills the area.

Valanga Port

The port is being constructed during our visit. According to Kuya Jojo, this will be the island’s main port and will also be open for the RORO vessels once completed.

on the way to Valanga port

down Valanga port

Paganaman Port

We ended our tour on this port, where fishermen docked their boats with steep platforms, yet scenic views.

on the way to Paganaman port

steep platform

fishermen's boats

Electricity on the island is shut off from midnight to 6 AM.

Tuesday, April  15, 2014

Jean and I woke up early and found ourselves wandering around the town center – there’s the basketball court, a large field with some kids playing football, the central school and municipal hall.

View of the plaza from Itbayat Church

We went back to Nanay Laura’s place and found her preparing our breakfast.

No banana leaves, just Abaya leaves from Atipuho tree

With Nanay Laura in Vakul (on the background is the Atipuho tree)

Dibang (Flying Fish), plain and turmeric rice, lukay (yum), uvud patty for breakfast

Beside Nanay Laura’s is yet another place to stay when you visit Itbayat – the Levinda Lodge.

At 9:30 AM, we bid goodbye to Nanay Cano.

Nanay Cano, retired teacher

While waiting for M/B Veronica to dock, we met the boat’s captain – Julio Balanoba, who in August 2013 was reported missing and found by the Japanese Coast Guard. For the full story, click here.

with M/B Veronica captain - Julio Balanoba

If the waves going to Itbayat the previous day was calm, going back to Basco was a different story – boats were rocking hardly amidst the strong and aggressive waves, passengers had difficulty getting on the boat.

Watch the video on how difficult it was to get on the boat given the strong waves (to upload sooooon).

The two-hour trip back to Basco was a misery.  Some puke, while others decided to stay awake.  It was hard to sleep. It was like tossing and turning you endlessly. I got a headache after that journey. Now I understand what is meant by ‘seasick’.

Exhaustion was not an excuse to continue our day with the North Batan Tour. After an hour of rest, Michael picked us up in Novita House.

Vayang Rolling Hills

The endless waves of hills with the view of West Philippine Sea (South China Sea). The hills are not as green as I expected it to be, but enough to enjoy the picturesque view.

on the other side is brownish hills

Valugan Boulder Beach

The view of the Pacific Ocean and the gigantic waves, the volcanic rocks spewed out by Mt. Iraya long time ago, and polished by tides over time makes this place a stunning one.

Meong's signature "washed away" shot

Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel

The tunnel built by the Japanese as shelter for their soldiers during World War II.

Idjang Fortress in Basco

Other Ivatan settlements that served as a fortress against invaders.

Tukon Radar Station

The PAGASA Weather station of Batanes. From here is a 360 degree-view of Mt. Iraya and Basco town.

Tukon Church or Our Lady of Mt. Carmel Chapel

Who wouldn’t want to get married on this small but beautiful church? Inspired by Ivatan stone houses, the church has stone walls, but the roof is made of bricks.

For the second time, we went back to Bunker’s for dinner. This time, without much of the sunset, but more time to explore the lighthouse and appreciate the surrounding hills.

The Bunker and Basco Lighthouse

View from the top of the lighthouse

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

This day is one of the reasons why we push through our North Batan Tour the previous day despite the boat ride we experienced from Itbayat to Basco – to spend time on the beach.

White Beach or Homoron White Beach

Located along the national highway, White Beach is a short strip of white sand where we found our inner peace. Nyahaha! We spent hours doing nothing, sleeping, exploring the area, sleeping, watching the waves and sleeping again.

Homoron White Beach

our temporary "tambayan" in Homoron White Beach

Blue Lagoon or Spanish Blue Lagoon

When we got bored of White Beach, we headed to the Blue Lagoon on foot. This swimming site was once only allowed for Spaniards back in the Spanish era. One just has to walk or trek the rocky cliffs that will lead to its natural pool. This was the only area in Batan where we had the chance to swim.

Passing through these boulders and rocks to get to the Blue Lagoon

boulders and rocks in Blue Lagoon

around Blue Lagoon

Take extra precaution when visiting the Blue Lagoon, its strong waves smashing rocks and boulders might get you out of balance.

Agree, there are no chic hotels with large swimming pools, nor formal dining type of restaurants. Cost of airline tickets going to other South East Asian countries like Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam or Cambodia are way cheaper compared to Batanes, especially if you are travelling during summer and there are no airline promos.  But, would you also agree that Batanes is a combination of distinct landscapes, honest and warm people, simple manner of living, unpredictable weather and hell of an adventure?

Each day I spent on this trip was a memory to treasure.  With that, Dios Mamajes (Thank You) Batanes!!!

Actual Itinerary and Summary of Expenses:

Contacts:

Ate Remy of Novita House, Batan Island, Batanes – 09274121031

Michael (Van Driver), Batan Island, Batanes – 09491400217

Mr. Bong of Bunker’s, Batan Island, Batanes – 09997274789

Nanay Cano (Homestay), Itbayat, Batanes – 09193004787

Kuya Jojo (Itbayat Tour Guide), Itbayat, Batanes – 09206603801

Casa Napoli Pizza, Chanarian, Basco, Batanes – 09189642567