Whale Shark Encounter and a side-trip to Tumalog Falls in Oslob, Cebu
I do not know if words are enough to describe what I felt on this day. It was a mixture of eagerness, excitement, "almost" drowned experience and pity for the whale sharks seeing how they were treated.
Let me tell you something about myself that could clear something out. Hmmmmm... imagine yourself in the boat wearing your vest and snorkel, you jump to the water as you are ready for the whale shark encounter, you saw one but the grandeur creature is moving faster and deeper, you take off your vest to keep up speed, then choking as the sea water rush into your mouth, and sinking little by little, you realized that you do not know how to swim! Yes! That's me - not a swimmer nor knows the basic of swimming! I just love being on the water, enjoying and appreciating the underwater world, experiencing the best on each beaches in the Philippines, but sad to say, water doesn't love me back :)
Whale Sharks, known as the "gentle giants of the seas" could be found in tropical and warm waters like what we have in the Philippines. In Tagalog, we call it "Butanding". They could be seen between November and June and in the height of February to May.
On February 2010, I had the first "up-close" encounter with the "Butanding" in Donsol, Sorsogon, the "Whale Shark Capital of the World" and a province located in the Bicol Region. I said "up-close" because I had the opportunity to swim alongside with one of them for 3-5 minutes NON-STOP with the help of our Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO) who swims like a fish! I just did what he had told me - took off my vest so he could pull me faster, hold his hand, kick my legs, and lastly, just watch and NOT touch the "butanding". Watching it was scary because of its hugeness, wide mouth, and big tail that could whip me anytime (hmm, I don't want to scare you but that what was I imagining then). But it was amazing to see that the white spots and stripes on their gray body seem to gleam underwater. It was also surprising to know (speaking for myself) that these spots are unique to each whale shark just like the human fingerprints. After that encounter, I promised myself to go back in Donsol, Sorsogon with my son, if he already knows how to swim ;). Imagine, I got the chance to swim with the largest fish in the world!!! Isn't that an adventure of a lifetime?
Early the following year, a local news featured the controversial whale shark encounter in Oslob, Cebu - the hand-feeding of "uyap" or baby shrimps to keep the whale sharks in the area. But before this, I didn't know that Cebu offers this kind of activity. Interested in the story, I added the whale shark encounter in Oslob, Cebu on my bucket list.
How to get to Oslob, Cebu:
- Fly from Manila to Dumaguete. From there, go to Sibulan Port via private car, jeepney or tricycle. Travel duration is 10-15 minutes. Then, take a fast craft or pumpboat to Liloan port. Travel duration is 20-25 minutes. Lastly, ride a Ceres bus or tricycle going to Bancogon, Oslob. Ask the conductor to drop you off at Barangay Tan-awan - the whale shark watching briefing area.
- Fly from Manila to Cebu. From there, ride a taxi going to Cebu South Terminal Bus Station. Travel duration is around 20 minutes. Then, take the Ceres bus going to Bancogon, Oslob. Travel duration is 3 hours. Ordinary and aircon buses are available. Tell the conductor to drop you off at Barangay Tan-awan.
Cebu Pacific Air, Zest Air, Seair, PAL Express and PAL have regular trips from Manila to Dumaguete and Cebu.
Saturday, June 8, 2013
At 6PM, after our Sumilon Island trip, we are waiting for a bus or a tricycle to pass by that will take us to Brumini Beds and Beach Resort when a crew from Bluewater Sumilon Island Resort offered us a motorcycle ride. Tired from our island trip, we humbly accepted the offer since the ride will only take a minute or two.
I chose Brumini Beds and Beach Resort because (1) it is near Sumilon Island, (2) it is few steps away from the beach where my Kobe could play and swim, and (3) it is few meters away from the whale sharks' location. Kuya Dodong, my contact at the resort was very accommodating and helpful before and during our trip.
A smiling resort staff greeted me the moment I set my foot off the motorcycle. I told her I was looking for Kuya Dodong and gave my name. She immediately handed to me our room key. I went to our room to place our bags while husband search for a place to have our dinner. There are lots of eateries within the resort's vicinity. We chose the one near the resort's entrance. The fish is a bit pricey so we all had grilled chicken for dinner - tastes good and affordable.
Since the canteen owner seemed nice, I asked her how the whale shark encounter started in their town.
Short history: Even before the 90s, whale sharks are just around the sea of Oslob, it's just that the locals, particularly the fishermen didn't mind them, but not until the sharks or "tuki" as they call it started to feed the uyap (small shrimps) that they use as bait for fishing. To continue with their fishing, they lead the "tuki" out of their fishing area by feeding them "uyap". Since then, the "tuki" awaits for the fishermen seeking for food.
I read some news articles and blogs on how the whale shark encounter in Oslob became popular and her story is almost the same :)
Sunday, June 9, 2013
Whale shark encounter is from 6AM to 12 noon. I wanted to start our activity around 6:30AM or right after breakfast when the "whale shark area" is less crowded but time does not permit - my Kobe was too tired from the previous day's island trip and still asleep until 8AM :(
After our breakfast (on the same eatery we had our dinner), a boatman, contacted by Kuya Dodong, approached and lead us to a non-motorized banca that will take us to the briefing area where fees will be collected and the 5-minute guidelines will be discussed.
The non-motorized boat that will take you to the briefing area
Briefing and "collection" area
Whale Shark Encounter Fees:
P300 (locals) or P500 (foreign tourists - Butanding Watching Fee (if you just want to watch the butanding from the boat)
P500 (locals) or P1000 (foreign tourists) - Snorkeling Fee
Children 5 years old and below are free
P20 - vest
P100 - Snorkeling gear rental
P500 - Underwater camera rental
Below are the whale shark encounter guidelines that I remember:
- Tourists must undergo briefing before the whale shark encounter. Don't worry, this will only take 5 minutes. Usually, tourists no longer asked questions because they are too excited to start the activity.
- Viewing / whale shark encounter is limited to 30 minutes per boat.
- Do not touch and feed the whale sharks.
- Do not use flash photography.
- Do not apply sunblock or any lotion before the encounter.
After the briefing, we rented an underwater camera and went our way to the non-motorized boat that will take us to the whale sharks.
We're ready!!!
According to our boatmen, there were around 20 whale sharks on that day. They also kept on reminding us NOT to touch the whale sharks. There were only few bancas when we arrived in the area. We immediately saw a "tuki", following the "whale shark feeder" (the boatman who's feeding the "tuki" with "uyap") like he was its master and to the point that the creature almost bumped its body on the boat :(.
Tuki following the whale shark feeder
I am not an expert but we all knew that this has a negative effect on the creature's natural way of living.
Pity them. They got bumped over and over again.
Though saddened by what I saw, I still want to experience a more 'up-close' encounter with the whale sharks. I told my husband to go first because Kobe got scared when he saw the tuki. Good thing it was not hard to convince him that these sharks will not do anything to harm us.
Kobe watching from the banca
Daddy Roy's first up-close encounter
And it was my turn! The first thing I did is to watch the tuki follow the "whale shark feeder" underwater. Even if this was my second encounter, I was still in awe with its hugeness.
My version of "swim with the whale shark"
Notice the closeness of the paddle to the whale shark
I didn't notice that there was another shark (see the tail close to my thigh?)
We enrolled Kobe on a swimming lesson last summer. Though he didn't really learned how to swim, it's just a good thing that he can be on the water by himself. Husband and I were able to have our pictures together underwater :)
Kobe's nanny for the day (the boat man)
After several minutes on the water, massive people started to arrive and dive in the water. Some were very stubborn, didn't even bother if they hit someone just to get "very" close to the whale sharks.
View from Brumini Beds and Beach Resort - whale shark area is not far from here
Beach front of Brumini Beds and Beach Resort
Whale Shark Encounter Tips:
- Arrange your visit during weekdays and early morning when it is less crowded and the water is calm.
- Bring your own underwater camera and snorkeling gears.
- PLEASE restrain yourself from touching the whale sharks.
The whale shark interaction in Donsol, Sorsogon is well-regulated. The boat crew is consists of BIO, boatman, and spotter whose task is to look for the whale shark. Even if the boat is already positioned in the whale sharks' shallow area, snorkelers will only jump off the boat if the BIO told to do so. Touching and feeding the whale sharks are strictly prohibited. I hope the people and the government of Oslob, Cebu could also strictly enforce these simple rules since the whale shark encounter absolutely brought livelihood to their town and could become a long-term source of income if they know how to properly conduct whale shark interactions to tourists.
Tumalog Falls
Another attraction in Oslob, Cebu is the Tumalog Falls. You can rent a multicab to get to the entrance and transfer on a motorcycle that will take you to the falls or do the 5 to 10-minute walk depending on your pace.
Scenery from the multicab
Start of the 5-10-minute walk
Not much water was flowing on the falls so the umbrella-like structure was not very visible.
I used my water-resistant phone to have our pictures taken at the falls, sadly, the files were accidentally deleted. I promised myself to go back here when the water cascading on the falls is strong so I could enjoy its natural mini pool.
To summarize our expenses (excluding airfare and food):
Contacts:
Dodong of Brumini Beds and Beach Resort
Tan-awan, Oslob, Cebu
+639327733438
Note: I finished the first draft of this blog on October 9, 2013 – a week before the 7.2 magnitude earthquake struck Central Visayas (including Cebu) on October 15, 2013, 8AM, and before the super typhoon Haiyan (Yolanda) battered different regions in the country (also including Cebu) on November 8, 2013. A new project at work has been assigned to me that kept me busy so I was not able to publish it then.
Today, November 15, 2013, my heart is still aching with what happened in the calamity stricken-areas. Two of those are my favorite places on earth – Bohol and Cebu. Once you read this post, please offer prayer for the dead, the grieving families and the survivors of these recent catastrophes.
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